| Standing under the
Oaks in Calabasas in the southwest corner of the
San Fernando Valley, is the lovely home of one of
the most colorful and legendary figures of early
Los Angeles. Built in 1844 and restored to its
original beauty by the Leonis Adobe Association,
it is a superb example of gracious living when
the San Fernando Valley was ranching country and
Los Angeles still a dusty settlement. On May
29, 1975, the Leonis Adobe was entered on the
National Register of Historical Places. It is
Open to the Public (donation requested) 1:00 to
4:00 P.M. Wednesday through Sunday.
History
Calabasas was the site of one of the two
hundred or more Indian rancherias (villages) that
once dotted the San Fernando Valley. Ventura
Boulevard was originally "El Camino
Real" that linked the Spanish settlements
and missions up and down California and now
continues as Calabasas Road. In front of the
Adobe hangs one of the now rare mission bells
that were placed along "El Camino
Real".
Before the Southern Pacific Railroad connected
Los Angeles and San Francisco in 1876, Calabasas
was a stop on the coastal stage line that was
operated by Flint, Bixby and Butterfield. At that
time, and until the turn of the century,
Calabasas had a reputation as one of the toughest
and wildest spots in California. A dance hall and
saloon stood on the south side of Calabasas jail
which was made of heavy timbers spiked together.
Alongside the jail grew the famous Calabasas
hangman's tree. The oak that grows beside the
former Kramer store was also, according to old
timers who used to gather at the store, used for
quick frontier justice.
The Discovery of
the San Fernando Valley
Over two hundred years ago, on August 5, 1769,
a party of Spanish explorers headed by Don Gaspar
de Portola stood where the San Diego Freeway now
crosses the top of the Santa Monica Mountains and
looked down on "a very spacious and pleasant
valley". They were the first white men to
see the San Fernando Valley. They were also the
first to explore California by land. Although the
Spanish had discovered and begun mapping the
California-Oregon coast in 1542, it was not until
two centuries later when other countries, and
particularly Russia, whose fur hunters were
already in Alaska, threatened to take possession
of the area, that Spain moved to colonize
California.
The Portola party, coming up from Mexico, had
stopped first at San Diego Bay. There they had
joined two other Spanish expeditions that had
come from Mexico by different routes, and
participated in the construction of the presido
(fortified stockade) and mission that were the
beginning of San Diego, the first Spanish
settlement in California. Then, heading north,
they had located the site where the San Juan
Capistrano Mission would be built in 1776. They
had come upon a river they named in honor of
"Nuestra Senora La Reina de los
Angeles" (Our Lady the Queen of Angels) and
had camped where the Pueblo de los Angeles was to
be established twelve years later, in 1781. They
had discovered the La Brea tar pits, and
following an Indian trail up a canyon in the
mountains that blocked their northward
journey--the same route followed today by the San
Diego freeway from West Los Angeles to the San
Fernando Valley--they had reached the top of the
Santa Monica mountains. The valley that spread
before them, they named "Valle de los
Encinos", or "Valley of the Oaks".
It was not until after the San Fernando Mission
was founded in 1797 that the valley became known
as the San Fernando Valley.
Descending into the Valley the Portola party
camped beside a spring-fed pond that can still be
seen as part of the Los Encinos Historical
Monument at Ventura and Balboa Boulevards. They
left the Valley through the Santa Susanna pass
and continued north to discover San Francisco Bay
whose narrow and often fog-bound Golden Gate had
gone unnoticed by the galleons sailing past it
for more than two centuries! Returning, the
Portola expedition entered the Valley by
following approximately the route now followed by
the Ventura freeway, and passed near or through
the site of Calabasas.
Miguel Leonis
"The King of Calabasas"
Miguel Leonis, as both a legendary and
historical figure, was one of the most colorful
of the early land settlers and pioneers of Los
Angeles and San Fernando Valley. A Basque who
stood six feet four inches tall, dauntless,
physically powerful, and possessed of shrewdness
and drive, Leonis for years in the late 1800s
controlled and ruled much of the west end of the
San Fernando Valley and part of what is now
adjoining Ventura county. His home and
headquarters was the Leonis Adobe, and he became
widely known as 'The King of Calabasass".
Leonis was born in 1824 in Cambo in the French
Pyrenees, where smuggling across the nearby
Spanish border was almost a way of life.
Apparently young Leonis took to this local
avocation so avidly that before he was twenty or
so years old it became advantageous for him to
depart for other lands. Probably, too, the lure
of riches and adventure, and of owning your own
land and sheep in far off frontier California had
reached his ears. Thus, sometime in the mid-1800s
he arrived in still youthful Los Angeles.
Being referred to as "El Basquo
Grande" and by one means or another, and in
spite of the fact that he spoke little Spanish or
English, Leonis acquired a small empire of land
and livestock, until at his death in 1889 his
estate was valued at over $300,000!
One event
that furthered the fortunes of Leonis was his
marriage to an Indian widow, Espiritu Chijulla.
Through this marriage Leonis came into possession
of the cattle, sheep and horses, and 1100 acres
of land belonging to her family. The land was the
El Escorpion rancho and was carved out of the San
Fernando Mission lands. Today it is the Platt
Ranch subdivision, just north of Calabasas.
Leonis acquired other considerable holdings of
land and livestock through various means, and
probably often as the result of shrewd trading.
But he also was not above claiming land in the
public domain--and he guarded his holdings
zealously with an armed retinue of Mexicans and
Indians. Any would-be settlers on land he owned
were quickly discouraged. If not, they were
likely to be hauled into Los Angeles to jail and
charged with trespassing or stealing. Leonis then
made it a point to freely dispense drink and food
to the judge, and jury, if there was one, who
tried the offenders! The archives of early Los
Angeles courts are filled with trials and
lawsuits in which Leonis figured-and the
litigation over his estate when he died went on
for years and still fills an entire file drawer!
At one time a pitched battle between a group
of persistent settlers and the armed mercenaries
of Leonis rage for weeks through what is now
Hidden Hills. Only when the leader of the
settlers was finally killed did they disperse,
and Leonis was left in possession of the land.
In 1889, Leonis was killed when his wagon
overturned in Cahuenga Pass as he was returning
to Calabasas following a celebration in Los
Angeles after winning one of his lawsuits.
Espiritu lived on at the Adobe until she died in
1906. She is buried at the San. Fernando Mission
where a monument of unusual distinction marks her
grave. Leonis was buried in Calvary Cemetery in
Los Angeles. Miguel and Espiritu had only one
child, a daughter, Marcellina, who died at 20
from smallpox. But descendants of John Leonis, a
younger nephew of Miguel, live in the city of
Vernon, wliich John Leonis founded. Among them,
the Leonis Malburgs have been generous
contributors to the preservation of the Leonis
Adobe.
The Leonis Adobe
The Leonis Adobe was built in stages-and
exactly who built the original portion and when
it was built is still the subject of research. At
first, there appears to have been a simple adobe
farm house with whitewashed walls. This original
portion of the house is believed to date back to
1844, and if this is so, it is almost certain
that Leonis did not build it. In any event, about
1880 he extensively enlarged and remodelled the
house into the gracious Monterey style mansion
you see today, and he and Espiritu moved into it
and made it their home.
A great deal of research, study and skillful
work has gone into faithfully restoring the
Leonis Adobe to the way it is believed to have
appeared after Leonis completed enlarging and
remodeling it. But there are one or two
exceptions. For instance, the present living room
was originally two rooms, a parlor and living
room, separated by a wall just to the right of
the front door. The wall was removed about 1925
and has not been replaced in order to provide a
large room for group meetings.
Leonis, in enlarging and remodeling the house,
sheathed the outside front of the house, and
panelled the interior living room walls with
wood. He walled-in the rear and northeast side
porches, both upstairs and downstairs, to add
more rooms. He added the Victorian fretwork
balcony along the front of the house, and other
enhancing details and features. The bright colors
that highlight the house were discovered under
many layers of paint, and presumably were the
ones that Leonis used.
In repainting the house, they were carefully
matched.
In the present living room, the family
portraits hang on the wall where they used to
hang, but the mirror originally hung where the
dining room door now is. This door was cut
through in the 192Os. Before that, as in many of
the early Calif6rnia houses, one walked along the
porch to reach the dining room.
Both the kitchen and dining room are board and
batten construction added during Leonis'
remodelling. The adobe dirt floors were
discovered under modern wood flooring that has
been removed. The fireplace in the dining room
and stove in the kitchen provided the only heat
in the house. The stove, while not original to
the house, carries a date of 1875.
The stairway to the second floor used to be on
the outside of the house before Leonis walled-in
the rear porches. Thus, as you go up the stairs,
a window in the master bedroom, on your right,
opens to what is now a hall. The protruding nails
in the upstairs hall rafters were used for
hanging grapes to dry them into raisins.
Originally there had been only the traditional
outhouses. In the 192Os, the then owner of the
house built a frame addition along the north
(freeway) side, in which two bathrooms were
included. This addition was removed when the
house was restored, and a small bedroom converted
into a bathroom. Old fashioned fixtures have been
installed, such as the copper-lined, walnut
panelled bathtub, which dates from 1880.
The furniture in the master bedroom was very
similar to what you see there. There were no
closets in any of the bedrooms. Clothes were hung
on the walls or stored in drawers or gaily
decorated chests.
Outside, at the northwest corner of the house,
a large Mexican "beehive oven" with a
shed over it for protection from the rain, was
used to bake bread. The present oven and shed
have been reproduced from descriptions furnished
by persons who saw the original ones.
The barn was built in 1912 to replace an early
barn and blacksrnith shop that stood across
Calabasas Road, and that burned. A well,
wind-mill and tank house (that was also used for
wine-making) stood at the southeast corner of the
house. The original well has been located and its
decaying redwood lining replaced. A replica of
the wind-mill has been built. The tank house you
see was found on an old Van Nuys ranch and the
wood tank belonged to the first Calabasas school
house.


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Ralph T. Enderle
CRS, GRI
RE/MAX Calabasas Centre
23586 Calabasas Road Suite #105
Calabasas CA 91302
818-222-7220
www.valleyhomecentre.com |
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